Milan S/S ’13: Gucci Aces the Smoky Eye – Again

Thu, 20 September 2012 11:48AM

There’s no doubt about it that the both the New York and London shows both mastered beautiful no-makeup makeup and the prettiest of pouts. However we knew that when it came to Milan, and more significantly the opening show (Gucci, of course), we’d be guaranteed to see something just that much more, well, outstanding.

It was mainly due to the fact that makeup maestro Pat McGrath was back at the helm, a post she’s held at Gucci for countless seasons. Personally my expectations were high after her effort at Gucci for the spring/summer ’12 season. Nobody, and I mean nobody, does a smoky eye like Pat:

But then I spotted this year’s effort for spring/summer ‘13 and I feel that I spoke too soon …

We were floored by the glowing skin and contoured cheekbones (à la model Anja Rubik, seen above), paired back to what I refer to as the prettiest springtime-appropriate smoky eye I’ve ever seen. It’s positively luminous, and provides a gorgeous contrast to the chocolatey smokiness. But if you look closely, you can see how well the soft brown and bronze shades blend in beautifully with the shimmering peach shadow. Along with two rows (yes, two) of false lashes.

So how did she do it, and how do we replicate it immediately, I hear you all ask. Well, earlier this morning I spoke to makeup artist Elsa Morgan, who’s worked with Pat on numerous occasions at international fashion weeks. Before Elsa jetted off to Paris for next week’s shows, she shared a few secrets on achieving it at home …

Tip #1: Don’t be afraid to use pencil eyeliner instead of eyeshadow

• Elsa says that when it comes to any eye makeup that has those beautiful chocolatey tones, Pat loves to use pencil rather than a shadow – which gives more of a matte finish – and preferably a colour that doesn’t have too much red in it. “She uses a pencil along the lash line and contours in the socket so that it becomes almost like a cream shadow, which moves with the skin. Rub a kohl-based eyeliner pencil onto the back of your hand, then, using your eyeshadow brush, apply the pigment as you would a normal smoky eye, extended out at the sides. Then blend a shimmering peach shadow over the top to get that healthy and young finish.”

Tip #2: Open up your inner-V

• It wouldn’t be Pat McGrath makeup if there weren’t any highlights present. “The key is to use a not-too-slippery shimmer stick or shadow on the inner-V, then gently blend along the cheekbones, the Cupid’s Bow, and a little along your hairline to make the whole face look sheer and fresh,” says Elsa.

Tip #3: Keep the waterline clean

• For this look, Pat left the inner-rim clean – so ‘60s – and again perfect for spring, as wintery smoky eyes usually have a dark liner applied on the waterline. “The fact that there is the shimmer on inner-V is what keeps it open and light, so even though there is the chocolatey, bronze contouring at the socket and along the lower lash line, leaving the waterline bare keeps the eye looking bright.”

Tip #4: Don’t worry. You don’t need two sets of false lashes

• One set will definitely suffice, Primpers, although if you aren’t comfortable with wearing false lashes, a volumising mascara will do the trick. Elsa suggests opting for one set of falsies, and then applying your mascara on top so they work in with your natural lashes.

Tip #5: Apply your base in sheer layers

• Since the eye is the focal point, you want to keep the rest of your makeup beautifully natural and luminous. Sheer foundations or tinted moisturizers are ideal, and Elsa advises to “build your base in sheer layers so the skin looks as youthful as possible.” She also recommends to try and keep your base as light as possible over your cheeks to keep it looking less made-up, and then use a peachy blush instead of rose to keep the colours warm on your face. “Apply the cream blush to the back of your hand and then use your normal blush brush, preferably with natural fibers, and then blend it over your cheek. That way you aren’t overloading the brush,” Elsa says.

What do you think Primpers – could this be your favourite makeup look from the s/s ’13 season so far?

Do you like this shimmering smoky eye?

What are your top smoky eye tips?

Hayley x

Posted by: Hayley Bennett

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Tags: anja rubik, elsa morgan, eyeshadow, gucci, makeup, milan fashion week, pat mcgrath, s/s '13, smoky eye, spring makeup