Why Retinol is Still Relevant

Wed, 12 September 2012 10:36AM

The revolving door of beauty is in perpetual motion; as one new ‘miracle’ ingredient enters the market, another quietly leaves with its claims between its legs.

But one ingredient that has weathered the storm – and fluctuated in popularity – is retinol.

A form of vitamin A, its superpower was first discovered in the early 1930s. Throughout ensuing decades, interest and research expanded and the 1960s saw it stabilised into what is known as retinoic acid (Retin A), before it hit the skincare market in the ’70s.

Diminished lines, lesser wrinkles, even pigment and a boosted youthful glow are all results of this skincare star, and to date it’s still the only skincare ingredient shown to be essential for cell differentiation and healthy skin.

Fiona Tuck, Skinstitut MD explains that today, there are three different types of retinol available with different encapsulation technologies and delivery systems.

“Depending on how good the encapsulation technology will depend on the actual potency of the retinol contained within. You could have a 1% retinol in a formulation with less potency than a .25% retinol!” she explains.

Modern day technology has enabled retinol in various forms to be added to a flurry of skincare products, becoming more mainstream and manageable for all types of skin.

This may have something to do with its increasing popularity of late, but Tuck also puts it down to trends. Like in fashion, the beauty industry chews up and spits out new finds fast, so the phenomenon of stem cells and peptides may have eclipsed retinol in recent years.

But as Tuck points out, the latter still holds all aces.

“Retinol/vitamin A is the only ingredient to date that has been found to reverse DNA damage and normalize cell production,” she says.

“Whilst retinol may have been around for years, there is still nothing that beats it for product efficacy and results, therefore clients once again are turning to vitamin A. As technology advances, encapsulation technology and delivery systems allow safer and more gentle results, whilst still delivering the results the consumer requires.”

“It is still the most researched and most medical documented vitamin used in skincare,” she adds.

Retinol – like any active skincare ingredient – should be approached slowly, introduced into a skincare regimen in small doses, so as not to overload the skin. Plus, it’s always advised to wear a high protection, broad spectrum sunscreen when using any form of vitamin A.

“If large doses of retinol are used and introduced too frequently, a retinoic acid reaction can occur which can appear as redness and irritation in the skin,” Tuck warns. Check all labels on your current skincare to ensure it can be used in conjunction with retinol and if you do suffer from sun sensitivity, dip into retinol in the P.M – it’s prime application time.

It seems the retinol revolution is no closer to ending, explains Tuck. “Advanced encapsulation technology means that retinol can be better protected from UV and heat than ever before, therefore keeping more of its activity and potency.”

Nearly 100 years after it’s discovery, the best may be to come.

Ready to give it a go? Here are our product picks…

Ultraceuticals Ultra A Skin Perfecting Serum Mild, $98 - available in leading salons and David Jones stores nationally.
Skinstitut Retinol, $45 – visit www.skinstitut.com.
RoC Retin-OX Wrinkle Correxion Eye Cream, $45 – available in leading pharmacies nationally.
Elixia Tinted Multi V Moisturiser + SPF12, RRP $49.95 – visit www.elixia.com.au

So tell us…

Have you tried Retinol?
What are your product picks?

Posted by: ecb

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Tags: anti-ageing, beauty, featured, retinol, skincare, vitamin a