How to: Conceal All Over

Fri, 23 March 2012 12:06PM

Introducing the top-to-toe makeup tricks for looking born-this-way flawless…

Dark Circles

First thing to look for: a creamy consistency, which best softens into the dry and delicate skin here (Tip: you can also mix in a little eye cream to enhance blendability). The next thing to consider is the shade of concealer. If your circles have a blue tone to them, a peachy-hued concealer tends to work best. One great buy: Laura Mercier Secret Concealer, $45, Adore Beauty. If, however, your circles are purple-ish in tone, a yellow-based concealer should do the trick nicely; try Australis Concealer, $9.95, from pharmacies. As for circles that appear brown-ish, a pink-based concealer should soften the effect well; try Bloom Concealer in Flawless, $28, Bloom.

For severe cases of dark circles, you may need to follow up with a brightening concealer. This type of concealer generally has a low pigment count, so is not great on its own; but as a secondary concealer, it adds enough light-reflection to deflect attention from any remaining signs of darkness, and to generally sparkle-up the area. Try Bourjois Touche Healthy Mix Brush Concealer, $24, from pharmacies.

Final tip: only apply concealer to the dark patches, which tends to be from the inner corners to just below the centre of the lashline; too much and you’ll look coloured, not concealed.

Above the Eyes

Most creamy-consistency basic concealers should cover the visible veins on the skin here, and make for a good eye shadow base (although if you’re wearing power shadow, dust on some translucent power in between). But Laura Mercier also has a nifty solution if you have the extra dollars; it’s called the Eye Basic, $42, Adore Beauty, and it’s a neutral-toned powder-finish cream that works nicely on its own to even out the eyelid skin, or act as a primer.

Pimples

First of all, you want a concealer that is high in pigment and low in creaminess, so that you can apply the minimal amount possible, and make sure it sticks. Benefit Boi-ing Industrial Strength Concealer, $37, Adore Beauty, is a goodie. Secondly, you should invest in a concealer brush for best results; applying concealer with fingers can warm it up, which can cause it to run straight off the spot you’re trying to hide. Bobbi Brown Concealer Brush, $45, Bobbi Brown, is one of the most effective wands for precise spot-covering application.

This brush-on technique can also be used to soften the appearance of acne scars; pat concealer into the pitted area of the scar, and set with translucent power. As for the best shade of concealer here, most makeup artists recommend one that perfectly matches your skintone. But there is another theory: a slightly lighter concealer will visually lessen the hollowed look of a pitted scar, while a slightly darker one can minimise the appearance of a raised scar. So experiment until you find what works for you.

Pigmentation

Warning – it’s difficult to cover up sun spots and melasma. Much preferable is to focus on skincare strategies – IPL (intense pulsed light) can work effectively on the sun spots, while many derms prefer to treat melasma, which is hormonally triggered and much harder to fade, with a custom-mixed bleaching cream. However, you may get some good temporary results by smoothing a pigment-strong concealer (such as the Benefit one listed above) onto dark patches, followed by a light film of illuminising lotion (like Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector, $66, Becca) all over the face.

General Discolouration

If you’re not wearing foundation, or only have on a light tint, and simply want to even out your skintone – say, the redness at the sides of your nose or any mottled spots on your cheeks – one of the best buys in the business in M.A.C Select Cover Up, $32, MAC

Rosacea

If you suffer from rosacea, whether in the form of intermittently flushing cheeks or fully-blown ruddiness, mineral makeup is by far your best bet. Not only does this form of base provide pure-pigment coverage, but it’s anti-inflammatory in nature. Mineral makeup requires a specific application, being best buffed into skin with a kabuki brush; many brands now offer mineral foundation mixes, but a can’t-go-wrong one is Priori CoffeeBerry Perfecting Minerals, $70, Adore Beauty.

For extreme cases of rosacea, consider first priming the skin with a green-based lotion, which will help to counter the redness; try ModelCo Miracle Veil Skin Perfecting Fluid, $54, from ModelCo

Below the Neck

If your décolletage is looking less than show-off-able, or your hands a little worse for wear, mineral makeup is also a fabulous skintone-evening fix-it. Or MAC Face & Body Foundation, $60, MAC, is highly recommended, being a makeup artist and celebrity favourite. For legs that are blemished by spider veins or bruises, try a spray-on makeup, such as Sally Hansen Airbrush Legs, $24.95, from pharmacies.

 

There you have, Primpettes, now you’re (literally) flawless … Do you have any great camouflage and concealer tricks of your own you can share?

And what are your top concealer buys?

Posted by: Katrina Lawrence

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